这是什么水上魔法？(What waterborne wizardry is this?)

在人类自学的所有技巧中，很少有比冲浪更让人愉悦和印象深刻的了。冲浪是一项运动，一种消遣，一门艺术，一种人生哲学，就像一个人在未驯服的海洋上所能表演的一样，它离魔法很近。今天，冲浪运动因国际冲浪日而备受青睐，每年的国际冲浪日都是纪念这项运动、冲浪生活方式和海洋本身的日子，海洋本身的健康对这项运动和其他许多运动都至关重要。冲浪者与海洋及其产生的波浪有着特殊的联系。冲浪波浪依赖于数百或数千英里以外的风，这些风产生的能量使海浪运动起来，这些海浪可能需要几天才能到达海岸线；然后是礁石或陆地或水下巨砾的点，在其上，涌浪将变成完美形状的波浪。风和时间是一切，热衷于冲浪的人对天气和海岸了如指掌。
原文：
Of all the tricks humans have taught themselves, few delight and impress more than surfing. A sport, a pastime, an art, a philosophy of life, surfing is as close to magic as a person can perform on the untamed ocean. Today, the sport of wave riding gets its well-earned due with International Surfing Day, a time each year to honour the sport, the lifestyle of surfing, and the ocean itself, whose good health is vital to the sport and so much else. Surfers have a special connection to the ocean and the waves it produces. A surfable wave relies on so much – the winds hundreds or thousands of miles away that produced the energy to set the swells in motion — those swells might take days to arrive at the shoreline; and then the reef or point of land or underwater boulder upon which a swell will break into a perfectly shaped wave. Wind and timing are everything, and devoted surfers know the weather and the shore intimately.
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